Trying to replace water pressure regulator

First, the copper pipes are 7/8" OD. That's 3/4" pipe, right?

Second, if I can buy the exact same regulator, even though this one
failed on me, it would fit in the same space.

From the left, the only view I have at the moment, it looks something
like
https://www.amazon.com/Zurn-34-600XLHR-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-34-600XLHR/dp/B01A6XI5GG/ref=sr_1_12_sspa
or this one, whose total length is listed at 5.7". I had measured,
awkwardly, 5 3/4.
https://www.amazon.com/Wilkins-34-600XL-Pressure-Reducing-Integral/dp/B004NHMRZW/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_1/146-3217469-9357668

But I'm confused about what sort of ends the valve should have. Both
input and output copper pipes have connectors with threads soldered on
them. Are they supposed to screw into the female threads on the
regulator? What is this connection called??

The second one says "FNPT Union x FNPT". I don't understand. What is
the difference between FNPT Union and FNPT?

Using this would be easy durilng inital installation, but now, am I
supposed to cut both pipes, screw them in, and the a) solder in
connectors where they were cut, or b) use 2 Sharkbite slip connectors.
That's hard to believe.

It's so corroded it's hard to see details of the valve. I have to move
the wardrobe in front of it, which is fulll and has 2 layers of boxes on
top, or I have to empty the wardrobe and hope I can remove the back of
it.

Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?

Should I cut the copper pipes, rather than fight with very corroded nuts
that have been on for 45 years. Should I use a Sharkbite regulator
after I've cut the nuts? They're substantially cheaper than the Zurn.
That's scarey.

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-23894-0045-EB45-DUSB-Regulator/dp/B00FMOGH74/ref=sr_1_6
https://www.amazon.com/Sharkbite-24449-0045-Pressure-Regulating-Connections/dp/B08B2M98KN/ref=sr_1_9
https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-22861-0045-Regulator-3-4-Inch/dp/B003CRIL68/ref=sr_1_15

Getting along wihtout water has not been hard. I filled two large soda
bottles on Friday from the next door neighbor's garden faucet and have
barely drunk any of it, because I also drink juice, soda, and milk. It
takes less than one bucket of water a day to flush the toilet. Someday
I may need a bath however.

On 4/28/2024 2:56 PM, micky wrote:
> Trying to replace water pressure regulator
>
> First, the copper pipes are 7/8" OD. That's 3/4" pipe, right?
>
> Second, if I can buy the exact same regulator, even though this one
> failed on me, it would fit in the same space.
>
> From the left, the only view I have at the moment, it looks something
> like
> https://www.amazon.com/Zurn-34-600XLHR-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-34-600XLHR/dp/B01A6XI5GG/ref=sr_1_12_sspa
> or this one, whose total length is listed at 5.7". I had measured,
> awkwardly, 5 3/4.
> https://www.amazon.com/Wilkins-34-600XL-Pressure-Reducing-Integral/dp/B004NHMRZW/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_1/146-3217469-9357668
>
> But I'm confused about what sort of ends the valve should have. Both
> input and output copper pipes have connectors with threads soldered on
> them. Are they supposed to screw into the female threads on the
> regulator? What is this connection called??
>
> The second one says "FNPT Union x FNPT". I don't understand. What is
> the difference between FNPT Union and FNPT?
>
> Using this would be easy durilng inital installation, but now, am I
> supposed to cut both pipes, screw them in, and the a) solder in
> connectors where they were cut, or b) use 2 Sharkbite slip connectors.
> That's hard to believe.
>
> It's so corroded it's hard to see details of the valve. I have to move
> the wardrobe in front of it, which is fulll and has 2 layers of boxes on
> top, or I have to empty the wardrobe and hope I can remove the back of
> it.
>
> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>
> Should I cut the copper pipes, rather than fight with very corroded nuts
> that have been on for 45 years. Should I use a Sharkbite regulator
> after I've cut the nuts? They're substantially cheaper than the Zurn.
> That's scarey.

Start with the nuts. I can't imagine the copper will not unscrew from
copper. Worst case, you can unsolder the copper pipe fittings and
replace them with new.

If you can wait a bit for the job, the valves can be found cheaper on ebay.

>
> https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-23894-0045-EB45-DUSB-Regulator/dp/B00FMOGH74/ref=sr_1_6
> https://www.amazon.com/Sharkbite-24449-0045-Pressure-Regulating-Connections/dp/B08B2M98KN/ref=sr_1_9
> https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-22861-0045-Regulator-3-4-Inch/dp/B003CRIL68/ref=sr_1_15
>
>
> Getting along wihtout water has not been hard. I filled two large soda
> bottles on Friday from the next door neighbor's garden faucet and have
> barely drunk any of it, because I also drink juice, soda, and milk. It
> takes less than one bucket of water a day to flush the toilet. Someday
> I may need a bath however.

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 28 Apr 2024 17:06:24 -0700, Bob F
<bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 4/28/2024 2:56 PM, micky wrote:
>> Trying to replace water pressure regulator
>>
>> First, the copper pipes are 7/8" OD. That's 3/4" pipe, right?
>>
>> Second, if I can buy the exact same regulator, even though this one
>> failed on me, it would fit in the same space.
>>
>> From the left, the only view I have at the moment, it looks something
>> like
>> https://www.amazon.com/Zurn-34-600XLHR-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-34-600XLHR/dp/B01A6XI5GG/ref=sr_1_12_sspa
>> or this one, whose total length is listed at 5.7". I had measured,
>> awkwardly, 5 3/4.
>> https://www.amazon.com/Wilkins-34-600XL-Pressure-Reducing-Integral/dp/B004NHMRZW/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_1/146-3217469-9357668
>>
>> But I'm confused about what sort of ends the valve should have. Both
>> input and output copper pipes have connectors with threads soldered on
>> them. Are they supposed to screw into the female threads on the
>> regulator? What is this connection called??
>>
>> The second one says "FNPT Union x FNPT". I don't understand. What is
>> the difference between FNPT Union and FNPT?
>>
>> Using this would be easy durilng inital installation, but now, am I
>> supposed to cut both pipes, screw them in, and the a) solder in
>> connectors where they were cut, or b) use 2 Sharkbite slip connectors.
>> That's hard to believe.
>>
>> It's so corroded it's hard to see details of the valve. I have to move
>> the wardrobe in front of it, which is fulll and has 2 layers of boxes on
>> top, or I have to empty the wardrobe and hope I can remove the back of
>> it.
>>
>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>
>> Should I cut the copper pipes, rather than fight with very corroded nuts
>> that have been on for 45 years. Should I use a Sharkbite regulator
>> after I've cut the nuts? They're substantially cheaper than the Zurn.
>> That's scarey.
>
>Start with the nuts. I can't imagine the copper will not unscrew from
>copper. Worst case, you can unsolder the copper pipe fittings and
>replace them with new.
>
>If you can wait a bit for the job, the valves can be found cheaper on ebay.

Okay. I'll look there too.

>> https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-23894-0045-EB45-DUSB-Regulator/dp/B00FMOGH74/ref=sr_1_6
>> https://www.amazon.com/Sharkbite-24449-0045-Pressure-Regulating-Connections/dp/B08B2M98KN/ref=sr_1_9
>> https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-22861-0045-Regulator-3-4-Inch/dp/B003CRIL68/ref=sr_1_15
>>
>>
>> Getting along wihtout water has not been hard. I filled two large soda
>> bottles on Friday from the next door neighbor's garden faucet and have
>> barely drunk any of it, because I also drink juice, soda, and milk. It
>> takes less than one bucket of water a day to flush the toilet. Someday
>> I may need a bath however.

On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>
> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?

You should call a plumber.

--
Cindy Hamilton

On 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton wrote:

> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>
>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>
> You should call a plumber.

That would deprive us of a month or more of amusement as micky tries to
actually repair something in his home. I do have some sympathy for him as
he deals with nominal sizes that vary between black iron, rigid copper,
soft copper and various plastic offerings plus the inevitable sexual
problems.

In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
<hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:

>On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>
>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>
>You should call a plumber.

I hadn't thougbht of that.

Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?

Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.

On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>
>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>
>> You should call a plumber.
>
> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>
> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>
> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.

If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long as
there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in the right
order).

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 29 Apr 2024 14:37:22 -0700, Bob F
<bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
>> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
>> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>>
>>> You should call a plumber.
>>
>> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>>
>> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>>
>> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.
>
>If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long as
>there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in the right
>order).

Stomach ache today, feel queasy.

tomorrow I'll empty the wardrobe and I should have enough room. Will
have to scrape the corrosion off of it even to see even what brand it
is, let alone what model.

Do you think they'll still sell the same valve after 45 years? Maybe
there will be a good conversion chart or dimensions chart.

On 2024-04-29, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
><hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>
>>On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>
>>You should call a plumber.
>
> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>
> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>
> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.

How much money in terms of parts will you waste learning? How many more
of these repairs do you expect to do in your life?

--
Cindy Hamilton

In alt.home.repair, on 30 Apr 2024 09:31:48 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
<hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:

>On 2024-04-29, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
>><hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>>
>>>You should call a plumber.
>>
>> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>>
>> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>>
>> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.

I'm kidding here. I need water and I'll definitely call a plumber if I
can't do it myself.
>
>How much money in terms of parts will you waste learning?

Probably nothing. Most of the learning is reading and asking questions
online, and the rest is that it will take me longer the first time than
it would if I were to do it a second time. In fact, if the pressure
regulator costs me $150, the plumber might charge 300. Plus of course
his charge for labor which is 115 for the first 30 minutes and 45 for
each 15 minutes after that. So that's 205 to 385 for labor. 500 to 700
total. I asked my neighbor how much they had paid for the same job but
he didn't know. His mother may be the one who paid, or he didn't want
to say**, or he forgot.

I do have to buy a bigger pipe wwrench, maybe even 2.
14" is $20.
18" is $26. That's bigger than what I need, but I don't want to buy 2
of the same size. I have a Channellock style waterpump pliers that is
big enough, but I'm not sure I can grip it firmly enough.

You might be interested in the waterpump pliers. I have some smaller
ones that I bought, but the big ones I found on top of a trash barrel at
an auto repair shop. The pivot had broken , it was in 2 pieces, and
he'd thrown it away. I found a screw and nut and presto, a good set of
waterpump pliers. Never looked the price up before but I see they sell
for about $25.

> How many more
>of these repairs do you expect to do in your life?

This one, only every 45 years. But it's okay. By the third time, I
don't enjoy it much anymore. By then a given task is work, not fun.

**(Neighbors know I do my own work. 7 years ago they saw me repairing
the right front suspension of my car, took 5 days to replace the right
half-axle, the ball joint, the brake rotor, and the rim, plus the time
the car sat on the ground waiting for parts (mostly the riml). It's a
violation of the rules to work on one's car in the parking lot, but no
one complained.)

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 29 Apr 2024 14:37:22 -0700, Bob F
<bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
>> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
>> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>>
>>> You should call a plumber.
>>
>> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>>
>> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>>
>> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.
>
>If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long as
>there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in the right
>order).

Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
removed its back.)

Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
fittings at the end, just female threads inside.

There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
nuts involved.

IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and below
the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm more scared
to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)

But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.

And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't do
that.

Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
"slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
backed out to mate with the other pipe.

It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
flux -- but not right next to a wall.

**Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but it's
about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others?? -- and
the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT Female" or
"NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?

BTW, looks like I may not need a pipe wrench after all.
Polymer seat? Should I prefer that? It's the same price, but I don't
know if it's better or worse.

micky wrote:

> In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 29 Apr 2024 14:37:22 -0700, Bob F
> <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
> >> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
> >> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
> > > > >
> >>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
> > > >
> >>> You should call a plumber.
> >>
> >> I hadn't thougbht of that.
> >>
> >> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
> >>
> >> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.
> >
> > If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long
> > as there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in
> > the right order).
>
> Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
> removed its back.)
>
> Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
> small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
> than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
> fittings at the end, just female threads inside.
>
> There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
> threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
> nuts involved.
>
> IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and
> below the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm
> more scared to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)
>
> But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.
>
> And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
> did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
> were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't
> do that.
>
> Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
> off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
> connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
> "slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
> backed out to mate with the other pipe.
>
>
>
> It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
> be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right.
> I've soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder,
> torch, and flux -- but not right next to a wall.
>
>
> **Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but
> it's about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others??
> -- and the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT
> Female" or "NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?
>
> BTW, looks like I may not need a pipe wrench after all.
> Polymer seat? Should I prefer that? It's the same price, but I don't
> know if it's better or worse.

If it helps, I had the 'toilet from hell'. I was sick and tired of
'handymen' on Next door virtually screaming flapper when you could hear
it flowing and releasing through the shark bite valve. We had no way
to cut the pipe or solder it back together, so got a plummer. In
addition to replacing the toilet with a much better Toto, the plumber's
extra costs were 600$ to cut out the old pipe after decontructing the
oak plank wall then putting the planks back together.

The flapper had nothing to do with it.

On Tue, 30 Apr 2024 11:41:20 -0400, micky wrote:

> It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
> be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
> soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
> flux -- but not right next to a wall.

Is the input completely drained? If there is still water in it you have a
heat sink that will be hard to overcome with a propane torch.

On Tue, 30 Apr 2024 11:41:20 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

>Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
>removed its back.)
>
>Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
>small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
>than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
>fittings at the end, just female threads inside.
>
>There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
>threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
>nuts involved.
>
>IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and below
>the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm more scared
>to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)
>
>But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.
>
>And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
>did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
>were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't do
>that.
>
>Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
>off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
>connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
>"slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
>backed out to mate with the other pipe.
>
>
>
>It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
>be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
>soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
>flux -- but not right next to a wall.
>
>
>**Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but it's
>about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others?? -- and
>the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT Female" or
>"NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?

Probably just means that it's approved by female members of the PPF, the
Plumbers and Pipe Fitters Union. You can trust them.

On 4/30/2024 8:41 AM, micky wrote:
> In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 29 Apr 2024 14:37:22 -0700, Bob F
> <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
>>> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
>>> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>>>
>>>> You should call a plumber.
>>>
>>> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>>>
>>> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>>>
>>> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.
>>
>> If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long as
>> there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in the right
>> order).
>
> Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
> removed its back.)
>
> Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
> small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
> than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
> fittings at the end, just female threads inside.
>
> There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
> threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
> nuts involved.
>
> IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and below
> the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm more scared
> to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)
>
> But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.

Check with your plumbing inspectors office or local code for approved
regulator requirements.

> And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
> did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
> were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't do
> that.

There might be some movement available after separating the union from
either end, and maybe removing some pipe hangers., Or, you could cut the
threaded fitting into the end, then un-solder the remains of the
threaded fitting. Then screw the replacement threaded fitting onto the
regulator, then solder that to the pipe end.

> Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
> off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
> connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
> "slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
> backed out to mate with the other pipe.
>
>
>
> It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
> be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
> soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
> flux -- but not right next to a wall.

A metal shield, with a wet towel behind it to protect the wall from heat.

>
> **Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but it's
> about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others?? -- and
> the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT Female" or
> "NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?

The union is easy to screw onto the regulator after soldering the union
to the pipe and screwing the other end onto the male thread already on
the pipe.

> BTW, looks like I may not need a pipe wrench after all.
> Polymer seat? Should I prefer that? It's the same price, but I don't
> know if it's better or worse.

On Tue, 30 Apr 2024 16:48:01 -0500, Jim Joyce <none@none.invalid>
wrote:

>On Tue, 30 Apr 2024 11:41:20 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>
>>Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
>>removed its back.)
>>
>>Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
>>small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
>>than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
>>fittings at the end, just female threads inside.
>>
>>There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
>>threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
>>nuts involved.
>>
>>IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and below
>>the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm more scared
>>to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)
>>
>>But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.
>>
>>And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
>>did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
>>were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't do
>>that.
>>
>>Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
>>off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
>>connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
>>"slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
>>backed out to mate with the other pipe.
>>
>>
>>
>>It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
>>be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
>>soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
>>flux -- but not right next to a wall.
>>
>>
>>**Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but it's
>>about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others?? -- and
>>the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT Female" or
>>"NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?
>
>Probably just means that it's approved by female members of the PPF, the
>Plumbers and Pipe Fitters Union. You can trust them.
The "union" is a dis-assemble-able joint. When indtalling water
heaters or softeners or water meters - and even main shut-off valves I
like to use unions - makes replacement the NEXT time a breeze.

NPT Female is national pipe thread female - solder plus NPT means it
has a "socket" you can solder a pipe into ore you can thrad a NPT
pipe fitting into it

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 30 Apr 2024 19:36:53 -0700, Bob F
<bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 4/30/2024 8:41 AM, micky wrote:
>> In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 29 Apr 2024 14:37:22 -0700, Bob F
>> <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On 4/29/2024 1:29 PM, micky wrote:
>>>> In alt.home.repair, on 29 Apr 2024 08:43:19 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
>>>> <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2024-04-28, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Should I remove the whole thing and take it to a plumbing supply?
>>>>>
>>>>> You should call a plumber.
>>>>
>>>> I hadn't thougbht of that.
>>>>
>>>> Sure there's a lot to learn, but how will I learn if I don't try?
>>>>
>>>> Maybe if I can't do it myself, I'll call a plumber.
>>>
>>> If you get an identical valve, it should be pretty simple, as long as
>>> there is enough room and movement to unscrew the fittings (in the right
>>> order).
>>
>> Made some progress (cleaned out the wardrobe in front of the pipe and
>> removed its back.)
>>
>> Very corroded but scraping off, I don't see the name of a maker, just
>> small print, no model number. Plus it's only 5 1/16" long, shorter
>> than anything sold online. Partly it's short because it has no
>> fittings at the end, just female threads inside.
>>
>> There is no possibility of unscrewing because the copper pipes have
>> threads soldered on which are screwed right into the regulator. No
>> nuts involved.
>>
>> IIUC, I'm supposed to cut the pipe a couple inches both above and below
>> the regulator. Then I can use any regulator. (Somehow I'm more scared
>> to cut the pipes than I would be to unscrew something.)
>>
>> But I'm pretty confused which one to buy**.
>
>Check with your plumbing inspectors office or local code for approved
>regulator requirements.

Okay, but more info to follow.
>
>
>> And I'm confused how to connect to the pipes. When the first plumbers
>> did it, they could just screw the pipes into the regulator, since they
>> were not right next to the wall until the last steps. But now I can't do
>> that.
>
>There might be some movement available after separating the union from
>either end, and maybe removing some pipe hangers., Or, you could cut the
>threaded fitting into the end, then un-solder the remains of the
>threaded fitting. Then screw the replacement threaded fitting onto the
>regulator, then solder that to the pipe end.

Okay.

>> Now I think I might be able to reuse the ends of the pipe that I cut
>> off, make the connecting pipes shorter and then use a Sharkbite
>> connector to connect the stub and the pipe for input, and a Sharkbite
>> "slip coupling" at the top. It slides deep onto the pipe and then is
>> backed out to mate with the other pipe.
>>
>>
>>
>> It's only a couple inches from a cinder block wall, but I still should
>> be able to solder on to the imput pipe a threaded connector, right. I've
>> soldered copper pipe several times before -- I have solder, torch, and
>> flux -- but not right next to a wall.
>
>A metal shield, with a wet towel behind it to protect the wall from heat.

Very helpful.

>>
>> **Maybe a separate post will follow about which regulator that but it's
>> about the price -- some are almost twice the price of others?? -- and
>> the connections -- for example, one is called "Solder x NPT Female" or
>> "NPT Female Union", How is that different from NPT Female?
>
>The union is easy to screw onto the regulator after soldering the union
>to the pipe and screwing the other end onto the male thread already on
>the pipe.

Aha.

I'm making progress. Pretty much wasted 2 days doing nothing... It
seems I am more afraid to cut the main water pipe than I was to cut off
the valve at two of the toilets, even though a) there is no water to
leak out anymore, b) if I do create a leak with a bad repair, it would
have been worse in a 2nd floor bathroom where it would drip into the
first floor and the basement too, compared to a leak in the basment 15
feet from the sump pump, and which already happened a week ago.

And I also signed up for a plumbing forum and 40 hours later still
waiting for approval. When I entered my own email etc the Captcha
never came back; Registering with Facebook didn't work (as it usually
doesn't for the last several months), and registering with Google seemed
to work but they never send me an approval email and I still can't log
in.

But with time, I've resolved some stuff and realized if I cut out the
old one I might be able to wire brush it and get a model number.

But I can't find my little or big tubing cutter. So off to Home Depot.
That was good.

Bought parts to use either solder joints or Sharkbite. Haven't quite
made up my mind.

I've been debating whether to also put in a quarter turn cutoff valve,
given that my gate valve works pretty well, but otoh, maybe it won't
always. I spent a lot of time looking at parts on Amazon and Home Depot
(Amazon is no cheaper on these things I think but they give better
descriptions and more user comments.) In person I saw that in
addition to a sharkbite cutoff valve, they sell a slipjoint cut-off
valve, so I can accomplish both things with one part.

I had looked at reviews for several regulators and a constant complaint
was that only one nut etc. was included. And you coudl see the effect
in the stock at the store. Some of them had no nuts because people
whose package only had one nut felt entitled to take one from another
box. I couldn't find them for sale separately. But I realize that
you're most likely going to firmly connect one end and the connec the
other end with the union, as Clare explained. So that's why only one is
included. One guy seemed to understand this, sort of, he said "One
might be enough for ssome installations but not for mine."

Spent 300 dollars or so, so I finally decided to get emailed receipt
too. It turned out it's just an image of the paper receipt. I thought
it would be more formatted. But that's okay. Also the attachement is
just named eReceipt.pdf, not HomeDepotReceipt, liks it should be named,
so I could find it more easily months from now. My oil delivery company
just calls their attachments "ticket" even though I wrote them about
this and other flaws in their system a year ago.

>> BTW, looks like I may not need a pipe wrench after all.
>> Polymer seat? Should I prefer that? It's the same price, but I don't
>> know if it's better or worse.

Polymer seat seems to be less common, which is why it's noted, and
sometimes called a soft seat and I forget the advantage but probably
doesn't apply to me since I'm average and it's uncommon.